Framed Angles

We mentioned on our last post that plank two didn't fit at the bow and the stern.  The reason this did not fit is not yet clear to us, we have talked to Alec in Scotland and Gardner from Hewes and Co. in Maine. We all agree that this plank is an anomaly. This is our second St. Ayles, built on the same molds as our first. Our garboard plank laid on with little effort. We double checked the set-up, the scarph alignment on plank two, both seemed to be correct.  We glued up plank three, and fit on our strong-back with no issues.  Instead of forcing it down into place at the bow and stern, we decided to fix the problem by cutting the plank where it was lifting off the molds at Station one and two and Station ten. 

This proved to be a great problem-solving lesson for the students, and is all part of the joys of woodworking and boat building.  

To check how far it was off, we laid the port side bow section on starboard plank two.  You can see that if the plank fits in the notches at the bow, it starts lifting off the notches as it goes aft.

Close up of the plank at Station three and four.  

We stacked the plank pieces on top of each other and cut the scarph with a power planer. 

The cut is in between Station two and three, where the wooden handscrew clamp is.  The plank faired out and fits our strong-back.

We applied epoxy to handmade scarphes cut into the second plank. 

We applied epoxy to the "land" on plank one and the frame.  First, we spread unthickened epoxy to wet the grain of the wood, then we added thickener to fill any gaps.

We applied epoxy to the 2nd plank in order to attach it to the boat.  Success!

Mo' Planks Mo' Problems

Plank 2 did not fit on our setup at the bow and the stern, so we double checked the plank.

We were cutting the gain into the garboard plank.

We were measuring the brackets for the foot stretchers.  The foot stretchers are needed to put your feet against when you are rowing.

We had to cut the stretchers to length according to our measurements so the pieces will fit in the boat.

We were hand sanding the edges of the foot stretchers so that the varnish would stick.

We varnished the foot stretchers and brackets.

Getting To The Bottom Of It

We dry-fit both garboard planks on the boat to mark out where the epoxy goes.  This is also necessary to double check that the planks are fair along the set up, everything fits properly, and we have all the clamps and tools ready for when we glue. 

Still dry-fitting, we used the screws as clamps at the bow and the stern.  

We clamped the port side plank in place after the epoxy was applied.

Spreading the epoxy on the keelson in preparation for gluing the starboard plank on.

Spreading unthickened epoxy on the garboard plank.

We used screws as clamps until the glue cures.  We waxed the threads of the screws with beeswax to make them easier to remove.

Thanks to the generosity of the Erie General Electric Employee Community Service Fund, we have a new Sharp Aquos Interactive Touch Board.  We used it for blogging this morning.  Thank you!

Clamping Our Style



We used the spokeshave to plane down the edge of the Rudder. We did this in order to reduce drag.

We used the thwarts (seats) from skiff #1 as a template, so we know which thwart is which, where it goes in the boat, and we know what size it will be. 

  

We were planing the extra wood off the edge of the thwart, (creating a chamfer) to make the thwart appear thinner.



We cut out more foot stretcher brackets for skiff #1 and sanded them down. 

We clamped up the garboard plank without any glue to double check the placement.  



After we glued the cheeks on the Rudder, we sanded it to make it flush and clean up the glue.

Stretching Out Our Skiff Skills



Rounding over the bracket for the foot stretchers using a router.  The foot stretcher brackets were cut out with the CNC machine and will be used for skiff #1.

Gluing up the next garboard plank.  

We glued the keelson to the stems and the frames.

Putting glue on the bow stem.

We were spreading glue on the frames.



We clamped the keelson down to the stems and the frames.  Afterwards, we had to clean off the extra glue.

T.E.A.M.W.O.R.K. (Together Each Awesome Member Works On Routing Keelson)



We are varnishing the Coxswain's seat.  This will be used on skiff number one.  The varnish has UV protection so the sun won't break down the wood.     

                                  


We used a Router in order to round over the sharp edge on the keelson. 







We glued together the garboard plank. 



Play Hard, Work Hard!

 

We needed the keelson to be 17' long, and 1 1/2" thick, so we had to make it out of 6 pieces of White Oak wood.  We used epoxy to glue the scarphes together.  Our shop dog, Spirit, photobombed this picture.

In both of these photos, we were gluing the two pieces together to get the right thickness.  We scored the wood with a box knife so the epoxy could soak into the wood and make the glue joint stronger.

We finished the oars for skiff #1 FINALLY.  The wider stripes indicate the longer oars.

Supporting the Strongback



We put one coat of primer on the oar before we paint.  The reason primer is used is it seals the wood, and it helps the paint stick.

We are screwing together the stand for the stem support bracket.  

We are gluing the stem support bracket stand to the floor.  The function of this piece is to support the stem and keep it steady during the build.

Getting Ready

We routed the inside of the stem with a round over bit.

After priming the floorboards of skiff #1, we scuffed the floorboards with fine grit sandpaper.  Scuffing will allow the top coat of paint to stick.

Rolling the top coat of non-skid on the floorboards for skiff #1 (on the left).  

Now that the plywood pads are glued to the floor, we double-checked with the water level before we permanently fasten the legs of the strong back to the pads.

It's levelled, so we are fastening it down!

Get On My Level



We're sanding the bottom of the legs of the strongback to get the gluey stuff off from last year's build.  This will make it easier to level.  Building the first skiff last year, these legs were glued directly to the concrete slab. Towards the end of the build a few legs moved. This year, building skiff #2, we are gluing plywood pads to the floor for the legs to sit on, fastened with screws and glue fillets after the strongback is levelled.

  

We're gluing the plywood pads to the ground so the strongback won't move during the boat building process.

We set the strongback on the pads and determined the highest point with a water level.  Shims under each leg were used to raise the whole strongback up to this benchmark.  We made the water level with a long, clear, 3/8" tube filled with water.  Food coloring at the ends makes it easier to see the water.

Leveling the strongback with a water level.

We are sanding the epoxy that was squeezed out of the cracks of the frames.